Ductwork Install And Replace
Sections that are crushed, undersized or disconnected beyond repair are replaced rather than sealed.
Gaps at seams, loose boots and cracked plenums leak air into attics, crawlspaces and wall cavities every time the blower runs. We measure how much is escaping, seal the openings with durable materials, and test again so you can see the difference.
A duct system is a long chain of joints. Each one is a chance for air to escape, and the losses add up quietly in comfort, energy use and indoor air quality.
Forced-air systems push heated or cooled air through sheet metal and flexible ducts that connect at dozens of points: the plenum on top of the equipment, takeoffs from the trunk, branch collars, elbows, register boots and the return path back to the filter. When those connections were only friction-fit, screwed without sealant, or wrapped in tape that has since dried and lifted, air leaks out at each one. Supply leaks send paid-for air into spaces nobody occupies. The equipment runs longer to make up the difference, and rooms at the end of long runs never quite reach the thermostat setting.
Return leaks cause a different set of problems. The return side of the system operates under negative pressure, so any opening pulls in whatever air surrounds it. In an attic that means superheated air in summer and dusty insulation fibers year round. In a crawlspace it means damp, musty air. In a garage it can mean vehicle exhaust and stored chemical fumes. Those pollutants are then filtered only partially and blown into living areas. Sealing the return side is often the single most valuable part of the job.
Leaks in and around a mechanical room deserve particular attention. A return that draws air from the same closet as a gas water heater or an older furnace can lower the pressure in that space enough to pull exhaust back down the flue instead of letting it rise. Sealing those return leaks and confirming the appliances draft properly afterward is a safety measure as much as an efficiency one, and we test for it whenever combustion equipment shares the space.
Our work begins with a duct leakage test. A calibrated fan connects to the system, the registers are temporarily covered, and the fan pressurizes the ducts to a standard test pressure while a gauge records how much airflow is needed to hold it. That airflow represents the total leakage. Where the ducts are accessible, we also pressurize the system with a theatrical fog or use a smoke pencil to see exactly where air escapes, which guides the sealing work.
Sealing itself uses materials designed to last. Water-based duct mastic is brushed over seams, collars and boot connections, with fiberglass mesh embedded across wider gaps. Foil tape listed to the UL 181 standard is used where mastic is impractical, such as on removable panels. Ordinary cloth tape is removed rather than covered over, since it fails as its adhesive dries. Loose connections are mechanically fastened before sealing so the joint does not move again.
After the work is done, the leakage test is repeated with the same setup. Comparing the two numbers shows how much of the original leakage was eliminated, and the results are recorded on your summary so future technicians have a baseline to work from.
Leaky ducts rarely announce themselves directly. These everyday clues point toward them.
Rooms served by long branches, especially over garages or at the far end of a trunk, suffer first when air escapes along the way.
Return leaks pull dust and insulation fibers into the system, so surfaces need cleaning more often than they should.
When equipment runs long cycles yet comfort stays mediocre, a significant share of its output may be leaking into unconditioned space.
Smells that match the crawlspace, attic or garage mean the return side is drawing air from those areas.
Moist attic air meeting cold leaking ducts can sweat and drip onto insulation and ceilings during cooling season.
Tape peeling from joints, disconnected boots and open plenum corners are easy to spot during any attic or basement trip.
Numbers bracket the work, so the improvement is documented rather than assumed.
The system is pressurized with a calibrated fan and total leakage is recorded before anything is touched.
Accessible ducts are inspected, and fog or smoke shows where air escapes at seams and connections.
Failed tape is removed, loose sections are fastened, and dirty surfaces are cleaned so sealant can bond.
Mastic, mesh and listed foil tape are applied at seams, collars, boots and plenum connections.
Where fuel-burning appliances share the space, drafting is tested after the return side is tightened.
The same test is repeated so you can compare the before and after numbers side by side.
These steps are standard on every sealing project.
Calibrated duct leakage test before work
Leak location with fog or smoke
Removal of failed cloth tape
Mechanical fastening of loose joints
Mastic sealing with mesh where needed
UL 181 listed foil tape on access panels
Draft test near combustion appliances
Retest and written results
Sealing is only as good as the surface preparation and the materials. Our crews clean joints, fasten them mechanically and use mastic that remains flexible for years, rather than covering problems with tape that lets go after a few seasons.
Since 2011 we have tested and tightened duct systems in Herrin, IL homes of every age. The before and after leakage readings on your summary sheet show exactly what the work accomplished.
We also look at the whole system while we are there, noting airflow restrictions, missing insulation or undersized returns that sealing alone will not fix, so you have a complete picture of what your ducts need.
The size of the system and how much of it can be reached are the main factors. Ducts in an open basement can be sealed quickly and thoroughly. Attic ducts buried under insulation take more time to expose and restore, and low crawlspaces slow the work further. Sections hidden inside finished walls and ceilings usually cannot be reached from outside, which limits how far hand sealing can go.
Condition matters too. A system with a handful of open joints needs far less work than one where every connection was taped and the tape has failed throughout. When the inspection finds crushed flexible duct or disconnected runs that need replacement rather than sealing, those items are quoted separately so you can decide on them independently.
Some utilities offer programs that recognize measured duct sealing. Because program rules change, your technician will mention any that appear to apply and point you to the program's current requirements.
Your price covers the testing, the sealing scope described in the proposal and the final retest. Anything outside that scope is discussed before work starts.
Sealed ducts stay sealed when the people around them know what to avoid. These habits protect the work.
Electricians, cable installers and insulation crews often crawl through the same spaces. A quick warning helps them avoid knocking joints loose.
Sealed ducts in a hot attic still need their insulation jacket intact to prevent heat gain and condensation.
A brief look at basement or attic ducts during a filter change can catch a separated boot before it becomes a comfort complaint.
When floors or ceilings are remodeled, ask the contractor to seal the boot to the drywall or subfloor before the new register goes on.
In homes where combustion appliances share a closet with the air handler, a closed door with proper combustion air openings helps keep drafting stable.
Adding rooms, moving registers or replacing equipment can change the system. A new leakage test confirms the ducts are still tight.
What customers noticed after leakage testing and sealing.
The leakage number dropped by more than half after sealing, and the bonus room over the garage finally cools in the afternoon.
They found the return in our furnace closet was pulling air from the garage. After sealing, the exhaust smell in the hallway disappeared.
I appreciated that they tested the water heater draft afterward. I had no idea sealing ducts could affect that.
Common questions about leakage testing and sealing work.
It varies widely with the age and construction of the system. That is why we test instead of estimating. The leakage number from your own system is the only reliable guide.
Standard cloth-backed tape tends to dry out and peel from duct surfaces, especially in hot attics. Mastic and foil tapes listed for duct use hold up far longer.
Hand sealing requires access. Joints behind finished surfaces usually cannot be reached, so we focus on accessible sections and explain which parts of the system remain untested or unsealed.
Tightening return leaks can change pressures in a mechanical room. That is why we test drafting on nearby combustion appliances after sealing and correct any problem we find.
Cleaning and sealing are separate services. Joint surfaces are cleaned where sealant is applied, but a full interior duct cleaning is only recommended when inspection shows heavy contamination.
Many homes are completed in a single day, including both leakage tests. Large systems or difficult attics may take longer, and the schedule is set in advance.
Rooms at the ends of long branches often feel better within the first day, and the effects on equipment run time show up over a full season.
Work that often pairs with a leakage test and sealing project.
Sections that are crushed, undersized or disconnected beyond repair are replaced rather than sealed.
Measured readings show whether return leaks were contributing to dust, odors or humidity.
Once ducts are tight, better filtration can do its job without being bypassed.
A cooling checkup confirms the equipment is ready to take advantage of the improved airflow.
Book a duct sealing visit. You will see the leakage number before and after, with a clear price for the work in between.
(888) 418-3681